Day 37 Ribadisco to Salceda

May 20,2016               Friday                           9 miles-left at 9:30, arrived at 3:30
Today we had an easy walk along farms and dairies and through one little modern town. We started with a light breakfast provided by our generous host at Casa Vaamonde. (Pilgrim breakfast is often toast and coffee)

We had an easy climb out of the valley that Ribadisco is in – similar to other days, shaded tree-lined paths, close to farms and it seemed like I saw more chickens today. We didn’t have to worry about mud or rain – once the fog lifted, we had 70 degree weather and sunshine.

We came out of the shaded area into this lovely pastoral scene of freshly harvested hay. Many of the pilgrims were stopping to take off their jackets and a few thei shirts.

Pilgrim from Poland

We passed several more Galicians working that let me take their photo, were actually proud to have been asked.

And then while we were stopping for lunch,  who did I run into but Joette  from St. Louis- who I met on Day 0  -my housemate at the first pension I stayed at just outside Pamplona, my first night in Spain. She had spent some extra days in Pamplona and I was ahead of her and didn’t think I would see her again.  It was so wonderful seeing her and catching up on her stories, and boy did she have some good stories.

The day continued to get wonderfully warm and when we arrived about home for the night,we were so pleased with a spacious room,spacious outdoor  sitting area and a clothesline.  The simple life of a pilgrim. We will enjoy the warm summer-like evening, as rain is forecast for tomorrow and we will have our last long walk -11.2 miles. 


Day 36  Melide to Ribadisco

May 19, 2016.           Thursday                              We walked 7 miles. Started at 9:15 am and arrived at 3:15 pm 
Another pleasant day in Galicia.We are watching the km markers along the Camino go down as we make our way closer to Santiago.

Brian, Lee and I came down from our warm, modern, glass in the windows hotel room to discover a buffet breakfast was included with our room. We also discovered the WIFI was working so we had an hour and a half breakfast feasting on local cheeses, fruit, hard boiled eggs, toast, juice and coffee.

We had a 45% chance of rain so we were lingering but finally left Hotel Carlost 96 at 9:15. This is a famil-run business by a Galician family that had immigrated to England, had their children there and returned to Spain to run this hotel. They were all so friendly, helpful and most gracious.

Romanesque church of San Pedro & San Roque in Melide

We stopped at this church in Melide on the way out of town. I thought the door was was so beautiful. The columns make it an example of the Romanesque style. But what I thought was more fascinating was a stone cross next to the church. It is a 14th century cross,the oldest in Galicia. Look closely. One side of the cross has Jesus crucified, nailed to the cross. The other side has Him in Heaven- in Glory. Look closely, one has his hands nailed, the other has His hands raised and appears to be sitting on a throne. I think I can see Him smiling, can you? This cross really fascinated me.

We walked through forest and farm fields, and. looked at small gardens and freshly cultivated fields, taking in the pungent smel of earth, rich soil.  We saw rich estates and crumbling stone buildings. We heard so many birds it was like we were in the aviary at the San Diego Zoo. Every day the Camino in Galicia has more beauty of the soil and spirit. These are gentle proud people, usually so kind and helpful and hard working. 

Brian, Lee and I goofed off with our cameras and ate the local food with gusto. I ran into A from Korea – she was the young woman that kept me from choking on  Day. I was so happy to see an “old timer.”

It feels and sounds like a tropical forest here

We stop every couple of hours. Lee and Brian get cafe con leche, I usually get fresh-squeezed orange juice but today I got a fresh peach. 

We arrived in Ribadisco, had a great lunch of salad and local cheeses  and then our host picked us up and brought us to his very nice “pensione” where we have this room with a view.  Only 3moredays to Santiago.

Day 35 Palas de Rei toMelide

May 18, 2016.       Wednesday.            9miles.  Left at 8 am, arrived 3:30 pm
Today was a cool day again walking in the lush green of Galicia with Brian and Lee. We took our time enjoying every little thing. We straddled mud, we shivered in the fog, we connected to WIFI when we could in the little village cafe and bars to send pictures back home or check email. We even got sprinkled on (very little) as we were approaching Melide. We are walking among gardens and private little farms and barns and fields. It is like the Camino is more personal here with the Galician people. I saw a lady come out of her garden with a bundle of greens, looked like chard and I asked her if I could take her picture and she said no. But she didn’t walk away from me,she followed me and lectured me in Spanish that if I took her picture then everyone would want to. My Spanish isn’t good  enough to know what she was saying for sure, but I clearly understood “otro y otro you otro.”

There are more people every day as we get closer to Santiago, and the Camino is filled with joy and laughter, more day packs than backpacks, tour groups and sore joints and pereginos limping.

We started our day in dodging mud – mud that can suck you under

Just a walk in the woods

12th Century church

 It was a garden like this that the lady was coming out with a bundle of these plants that I wanted to take her picture.

Mom and Pop farmer – took a quickie photo undercover as I walked by

Roman bridge

Another medieval or Roman bridge

I am 30 miles now from Santiago.

Day 34 Castromaior to Palas de Rei

May 17, 2016.       Tuesday.            Walked almost 12 miles through tiny villages, farms, wooded glens and along a small highway with Lee and Brian. We are less than 70 km from Santiago.

All is well, having fun, shins are improving.

Close to Palas de Rei

More photos and stories when time,energy and WIFI permit. I have not had good luck with WIFI lately.