Day 19 San Nicholas Del Real Camino to El Burgo Ranero

May 2, 2016 Monday.        15.5 miles.     Left at 7:50 – arrived 3:45pm

We left our beautiful albergue in San Nicholas late. We had left some food in their refrigerator and couldn’t get it out until 7:30 – so moving slow we left late and had a leisurely walk to the next town Sahagun, a lovely ancient town with old churches and little cafes and pilgrim statues.  On the way into town we snacked on hard boiled eggs. SweetSophie was so kind to peel  my egg for me when she saw  me fumbling with frozen fingers. –  and then I dropped. it in the dirt. She peeled anther one. Such patience and kindness. Mary, Sophie and I walked into the city together and enjoyed breakfast with other pilgrims.

Pilgrim art at Sahagun

Church in Sahagun in morning light – note the old and the new

Sahagun

Leavin Sahagun


After leaving Sahagun we walked along a path again under leafless trees beside a highway. Mary and Sophie left me in the dust and I walked enjoying the solitude and the warming of the day as I shed layers of clothing. The  Camino split into an optional route after awhile and Mary and Sophie waited patiently for me so we were sure to be on the same path. 
Again we were on a tree lined path along an asphalt road lined by wildflowers and fields of wheat and/or canola flowers.

Most of the day looked like this


With Mary and Sophie far ahead of me, I ran across S from Taiwan and we walked and talked together until the next town when we stopped for lunch. I went to find the ladies room and in the process of taking off my backpack Itook off a slice of skin the size of a small postage stamp.  It was bleeding profusely and I couldn’t stop the bleeding and take care of business.  What a mess! I finally got myself together well enough to wrap my hankie around it and ask the man behind the counter at the cafe to tie my hankie around my hand as a tourniquet and instead he kindly put a  band-aid  on it.  
S from Taiwan was ready to move on down the road, but because I had spent so much time on first aid in the bathroom I needed to eat my lunch – which was two hard boiled eggs and an orange.  M from Austrailia was talking to me. Earlier S from Taiwan and I were talking about we don’t think we are improving. It seems like everyone else is getting stronger and faster and let us know it and we are still at the same speed, energy level and endurance as. when we began, or maybe worse. In other words S from Taiwan and I were on the same page – real sisters of the Camino. After S left, M and I continued talking. But we were talking about the Camino in general and I told him I was learning and being tested in my character – sort of character development but I didn’t express anything specifically. Then M from Austrailia said to me,  “Perhaps you are improving then, on the inside. Maybe that is more important right now.”  My heart skipped a beat as I thought perhaps God was sending me a message through this atheist on the Camino and I was willing to listen.

As I was leaving this little town of Bericanos I saw some little white wildflowers and bent down low to photograph them. A nice looking, well dressed Spanish gentleman came up to me and asked”Que pasa?” Or I thought that is what he said. I pointed to my camera and said, “flores” (flowers,I think).That began a 15 minute conversation in Spanish. He asked me what country I was from, where I started the Camino, what state in the USA did I live in, did many people speak “Castillian” in San Diego . . . On and on. M from Austrailia passed by and asked if everything was all right – I assured him it was and off M went down the road.   After too many “No intiendo’s” on my part. (I don’t understand) he asked me if I was going to sleep in Bericaos and I pointed to the road westward and he nodded he understood. He held my face in both of his hands and kissed both cheeks, one at a time, and said “Buen Camino!” I gave him a big American bear hug and said “Vaya con Dios.”  He smiled – he beamed as I waved good bye to him.

I walked away with my heart so full of love for the opportunity to be in this country-at this moment-to share that moment with a Spanish gentleman.  What kindness I had received today, what insights and messages, what a wonderful day. I spent the next two hours walking by myself. I walked slowly enjoying the feeling of the sun on my bare arms. I was in short shirt sleeves and there was just enough of a slight breeze to keep it from feeling too warm.

Here is some of what I saw:


There was about 10 minutes where I thought I might not be on the Camino, but I saw somebody and asked them what the town was ahead and he told me it was El Burgo and I knew I wold be at my destination soon.

Passed by this little house in El Bergo Ranero on my way to La Laguna, the albergue for the night


Tomorrow I will be in Leon.

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8 comments on “Day 19 San Nicholas Del Real Camino to El Burgo Ranero

  1. Vicky says:

    Rest well Peregrino.

  2. Thank you for these lovely photos and for your stories. Thank you also for your honesty, for sharing your highs and lows. God is sending beautiful people along this journey; you are so blessed to meet them and THEY are so blessed to know you! xoxo

  3. Teresa says:

    Les’s mother commented to me while we were discussing the Camino after we had done it. She said something like…..it seems like you always don’t get what you expect on the Camino, but It appears that you get what you need. I think she was right in so many ways. Sounds like that’s what’s going on for you. Lots and lots of blessings!

    • Geri Wilson says:

      You are so right – I am being reminded of my physical limitations but am being so blessed in many other ways and hope to be a force for good to others.

  4. Vicky says:

    Now I see about your hand. I think you have made great progress on this trip, and are walking faster than you have said that you do at home.
    I love the interchanges with people that you have had, and the way everyone takes care of each other. What lovely scenery along the way. I am going to check out the distance from the beginning to Leon.
    You make us proud of your accomplishments, and envious of your trip. Did you hear that Leo has gone home to His, and our Father? A life well lived. Please keep his family in your prayers.🙏💖🙏💖😊

  5. Naomi Williams says:

    Keep plugging along. You are making the journey very enjoyable

    • Geri Wilson says:

      I heard another cuck-coo yesterday, even in these high mountains. There are lots of Storks’ nests in some of the church towers.I will try and get a photo of one.

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